If you have the standard ATC, which it sounds like, I would say you should never ever belay with it direct from the anchors. The combination of all these awkward things and the need to have the device in a rather limited range of positions means that, compared to the several other available options for belaying which are just as easy to implement, using a plate in non-guide mode directly on the anchor is an inferior solution. On the other hand, it is even more awkward to take in rope with the brake hand gripping thumb-down. But it is quite awkward to lift the strand up and brake in this position. In order to pull rope through the device effectively, the brake strand would normally be gripped thumb-up. Then there is the question of hand position. But if it is too low, then it gets hard to take in rope, so there is a fairly limited range of positions that will work. As Jim says, the brake strand has to be above the device in order to brake, so this means the positioning of the device is quite important it certainly can't be too high. I think that using an ordinary plate direct on the anchor is generally speaking a bad idea.
#Set up atc belay device manual
My question is, was this a safe way of belaying from the top? Everywhere I have read typically mentioned not to use a manual braking device when direct of anchor and should be using a guide style device that will auto lock, or use a redirect so the anchor is taking most of the weight. This didn't feel safe at all to me, even though the rope was in the brake position, I felt that most of his weight was held in my hands and arms only and would quickly fatigue on a high cliff. In addition to this, once the climber got to the top, he then wanted to be lowered back to the ground.
.jpg "set up atc belay device")
The position of the belay anchor meant that I had bend down or sit to even remotely entertain breaking if a fall occurred. I was attached to a separate anchor to hold me in place. The ATC was clipped into the master point at the top via a biner and the lead rope fed through as normal down to the climber below.
#Set up atc belay device how to
Now the instructor at the wall I'm at was showing how to direct belay from the anchor at the top using an ATC style device with teeth on one side. I have been attempting to extend my knowledge by reading Libby Peters book so that I can venture outside, practicing outdoors setting up anchors on top of a 45 degree (as opposed to vertical) mountain side. I have been climbing indoors for about 1.5 years, mostly bottom roping but have also done a few sports climbs too.
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